Ahead of his 92nd birthday in April, Willie Nelson is showing no signs of slowing down. The country music legend has had a lot to celebrate, from the launch of his new THC drink, Willie’s Remedy+, to the upcoming premiere of the Austin City Limits 50-year special, where he’ll be honored for his appearance in the show’s pilot episode with a performance by Chris Stapleton on April 4. And just last week, the singer opened up his ranch for the Luck Reunion.
When you get to Willie’s Luck Ranch, it’s best to check your worldly troubles at the gate. Located 35 miles west of Austin in Spicewood, Texas, walking onto the property feels like stepping back in time. Built as the backdrop for Willie’s 1986 film Red Headed Stranger (based on his 1975 album of the same name), the 500-acre ranch is still home to a saloon, a jail, a town square, and a barn — all repurposed into stages for the annual festival.
Billed as an “anti-festival,” the reunion is an oasis in the middle of South By Southwest’s chaos. Once you’re here, there are no priority lines or RSVPS, just wide open grounds, good country music, and a lineup meant to keep you on your toes.
Early in the afternoon, Texas-based country trio Chaparelle paid tribute to the late Kris Kristofferson, who passed away last fall. A prolific songwriter and veritable renaissance man, Kristofferson, was an undeniable fixture of Texas culture and outlaw country, and his decades-long friendship with Willie made Luck a fitting place to sing his praises.
Chaparelle welcomed an impressive string of performers up to the World Headquarters Stage with them, including viral folk singer Welles, Austin-based band Briscoe, Charlie Sexton, Lukas Nelson, and surprise guest Margo Price, who sang “Don’t Let the Bastards Get You Down,” which she says was inspired by Kristofferson, before launching into a cover of his 1970 song, “Best of All Possible Worlds.”
Before singing “The Pilgrim, Chapter 33,” Hayes Carll, originally from The Woodlands, recalled the first time he heard the song, which begins with a spoken word introduction naming some of Kristofferson’s heroes like Johnny Cash and Jerry Jeff Walker. “I remember lying on the floor listening to it, I had an out of body experience,” he told the crowd. “Before he even sang a line, I was transfixed and transported, and it changed the trajectory of my life.”
Though Luck is usually the kind of place where you can meander from set to set, catching a break from the heat in the shade of an oak tree, there was a definite buzz in the air as guests tried to suss out the identity of the mystery performer who had appeared on the lineup. As more and more people gathered around The Barn Stage, the whispers reached a fever pitch. “I heard it’s Jessica Simpson,” one person said. “Oh I heard she’s in town,” another confirmed.
It’s been 15 years since Simpson last performed a live concert. Since co-starring with Willie in the 2005 film Dukes of Hazzard, Simpson has referred to the singer as her “guardian angel,” performing with him a handful of times over the years. A Texas native who grew up in the Dallas area, Simpson arrived at her set in full Texas drag, sporting a matching turquoise necklace, bracelets, and concho belt with a glittery leopard print dress.
Calling herself a “very single lady,” she performed two new country-tinged new songs from her upcoming EP, Nashville Canyon, Part I, both drawing on her recent divorce. But the set was a celebration for Simpson, who told the audience she was happy to be getting back to her calling. “This time I needed to remember who I was and why I wanted to sing in the first place,” she said. “I need to forget who they told me to be.” She also sprinkled in a few covers, including Dusty Springfield’s “Son of a Preacher Man,” a nod to her father, and grandfather, who were both preachers.
All day, the main center of activity seemed to be the chapel. The most intimate venue on the property, the building drew long lines all day with fans hoping to snag one of the less than 100 spots in the pews for Charley Crockett’s set that evening. Though the singer from San Benito had previously performed at Luck’s main stage in previous years, the intimate setting lent itself to the no-frills vintage country vibe of his latest album, Lonesome Drifter, which was released the day after the festival.
When Crockett did take to the stage, he began with his album opener, “Easy Money,” as those who weren’t lucky enough to get a seat inside gathered around the windows of the church.
As the evening came to a close, it was finally time for the main attraction: Willie himself. Surrounded by his band and his sons Lukas and Micah Nelson, Willie wasted no time launching into an energetic rendition of “Whiskey River.” Throughout his set, Willie gave Lukas and Micah their turns in the spotlight, before coming back together for the country standard, “Will the Circle Be Unbroken.” Joining them were Crockett, Steve Earle, Lily Meola, Price, Welles, and the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, all forming a powerful backing chorus.
Up on stage, it’s hard to imagine another venue that might bring this group of people together on a Thursday night. But it’s like Willie once said: “You’re either in luck, or you’re sh*t out.”