Whether you were born and raised here or you just touched down yesterday, it’s a fact that every Texan should have a good pair of cowboy boots. Finding the right ones, though, can be a bit of a challenge. The sheer number of customizations can be overwhelming, and every factor, from the leather to the toe-shape to the color can signal the difference between a pair of work boots fit for the ranch or a pair of dress boots fit for a wedding.
In order to help break things down, I’ve rounded up some advice from a few of Texas’ boot purveyors to help you gift yourself (or your loved ones) the perfect pair.
Finding the Right Fit
Having bought my first two pairs of cowboy boots second-hand, I was shocked to find out, earlier this year, that the brand new pair I’d just spent minutes wrestling onto my feet were exactly my size. I also learned that this struggle was a standard part of the boot-buying process.
“Start with your regular shoe size first. Once you’re in, your heel should be able to slide up just slightly. There should be some movement, because if you can’t move at all, then that’s just the wrong size. It’s not so much about how hard it is to put them on, but about how firmly they keep your heel in place.”
— Angela Thomise at Lucchese
“You’re looking for that hug. You want the boot to hug your foot, because as you’re wearing it, you’re gonna break it in and it’ll eventually stretch to your foot. You also want some slip in your heel, because you don’t want it to be so stuck that you’re going to get blisters and be uncomfortable.”
— Maggie Dreyer at Allens Boots
If you feel that slight movement, but you’re still a bit uncomfortable, Thomise also noted that most boot sellers offer boot stretching services, which should help with minor adjustments and improve overall comfort.
Choosing the Right Leather
When it comes to the material your boots are made of, your options can be grouped into two basic categories: traditional leathers and exotics. Cowhide leather is far and away the most common choice for a traditional cowboy boot, thanks to its durability and affordable price point. You can’t go wrong with it, but it’s also not your only choice.
“Calf is the go-to, because it’s super soft, and pretty strong, but goat leather is typically a little more rigid, more durable, and still around the same price point. They can both be for a high-quality boot, but they’re not as flashy as the exotics.” — Kyle Collins at Allens Boots
Exotic leathers include everything from ostrich (the most popular luxury leather) to snakeskin, alligator, caiman, and even elephant leather.
“Ostrich is durable, but more expensive, so it’s more for those fancy occasions where you’re going out and you want to dress up. You can get full quill ostrich, where you see more of those bumps, the smooth-quill ostrich boots, which are a bit more subtle, or ostrich leg leather, which has its own pattern to it. Of all the exotics, I would say ostrich is known to be the most comfortable boot leather.” — K.C.
Picking a Toe Style
Toe styles are where things can get a little crazy. We’ll start with the most self-explanatory:
- Pointed-toes are the traditional choice for a classic cowboy boot. Whether you’re planning on riding horses or going out on the town, you can’t go wrong with a classic.
- Round-toes are a timeless, comfortable choice. Depending on the material they’re made from, they can easily be dressed up or down.
- Square-toes are often a popular choice for everyday work boots. Because of the added room to the toe box, they’re seen as a bit more comfortable and are typically more casual.
There are, however, tons of variations on these standard shapes, and some brands have their own specific names for these styles.
“We have Q-toes, W-toes, Snip-toes, Roper-toes, and right now, our seven-toe is the most popular. It’s somewhere between a pointed toe and a square toe.” — A.T.
“Cutter-toes are a cool in-between, where you get the room from a square-toe and the style of a pointed toe. You can also dress it up or keep it more relaxed.” — K.C.
A Few Pointers for the Newbies
“Your super nice ostrich boots are not for the farm. That’s a pair you want to really take care of.” — A.T.
“Don’t tuck your pants into your boots unless you’re riding a horse.” — K.C.
“Just stay true to your style. There are plenty of ‘rules’ out there, but it all comes down to preference.” — A.T.
“Get some Scout leather cleaner and conditioner. They make it for exotics too. Some people will tell you to use it every four wears, but if you’re not wearing your boots out every day, maybe use it every three months to keep that leather soft and supple and keep it from drying out and cracking. Also, think about a pair of sole savers. They can add some grip and extend the life of your sole.” — K.C.
Highlighted Pairs
For someone looking to make a statement:
- Lucchese Priscilla — ”Far and away our best-selling boots. They’re more trend-forward because they come in fashion colors like Garnet and Emerald.” — A.T.
- Miron Crosby Sophie
- Azulado Boots in Garnet
- Allens Boots Athena — “These just have a bit of character to them. They’re a boot that not everyone’s gonna have.” — K.C.
- Allens Boots Carson in Black Cherry
- Tecovas The Emmitt
- Tecovas The Abby
For someone with classic style:
- Lucchese Summer — “These are classic cowgirl boots.” — A.T.
- Miron Crosby Kirstin
- Miron Crosby Maggie
- Allens Boots Peanut — “This is what most people come in looking for. It’s not an exotic, so it’s more affordable, but it still has those traditional elements like the piping and embroidery.” — K.C.
- Allens Boots Janel
- Tecovas The Cartwright
- Tecovas The Annie
